UGANDA
Uganda was once described by Winston Churchil as the ‘Pearl of Africa’ - thanks to its terrific biodiversity, colour, life and beauty. For decades, 19th century explorers were obsessed with this part of the world, frantically searching for the source of the Nile. Livingstone, Stanley and Speke became celebrities for their continued and relentless pursuit of it.
Although it is land-locked, one fifth of the country is made up of water, with roughly 165 lakes and a major section of its border flanking the great Lake Victoria. A proportion of these lakes, as well as the many mountains and forests, make up the headwaters of the Nile River before it flows up to north Africa. Flying over Lake Albert, in the top left corner, one can enjoy the sight of thousands of fishing boats, in a constant hive of productivity.
To this day, one feels one is on a geographic expedition of old while scrabbling through the dense undergrowth of the Ruwenzoris or the Virunga Mountain Range searching for gorillas. Here too live the Batwa, one of the oldest indigenous tribes in Africa. The entire landscape is incredibly lush, with dense farmland snugly packed between imposing mountains and volcanoes. Names such as ‘The Impenetrable Forest’ and ‘Mountains of the Moon’ cannot but inspire a genuine sense of discovery and delight.
KIDEPO NATIONAL PARK
Bordering Kenya and South Sudan, Kidepo is right in the north east of the country. Dominated by huge granite inselbergs on either side of the park, it also features dramatic Borassus palm forests, sandy luggas and vast sausage trees (Kigelias). It is brimming with buffalos - perhaps the highest density of them of anywhere in Africa - often with herds of a thousand. One can also find elephants and Rothschild giraffes, lesser kudu or white eared kob who’ve strayed in from South Sudan. If you’re lucky you may find Clapperton’s Francolin or the rosy ringed parakeet. Here too live the Karamojong, a fierce pastoralist tribe who allegedly migrated to this area in 1600 AD, in search of permanent pasture. In contrast, we also visit the Ik, a remote mountain tribe who live around the edges of the park, living peacefully and growing potatoes in their gardens.
Just a stone’s throw from northern Kenya, Kidepo can easily be built into a Kenyan itinerary. Opoka Lodge makes a superb base from which to enjoy the park.
MURCHISON FALLS
At a spot between Lake Kyoga and Lake Albert, the mighty river Nile is squeezed between a gap just seven metres wide, and then plummets 45 metres down. Murchison Falls is not only a unique brunch spot, it’s also considered the most powerful waterfall in the world. Aside from this colossal water feature, the wildlife is also excellent, and usually viewed from a boat, or by car. You can compete with monster crocodiles to catch Nile perch, or explore a Borassus palm forest. For the brave at heart, a stint in a rubber raft along the white water that leads to the falls can make for some pretty epic memories, and you’ll see country flashing by that isn’t accessible any other way.
THE RWENZORI MOUNTAINS
Next to Congo, on the extreme western border of Uganda, are the Rwenzori Mountains. In his desperate quest to find the source of the Nile - and indeed Livingstone - Stanley walked past them and missed them three times, shrouded as they were in thick layers of cloud and mist. Even ancient Greek and Egyptian geographers would long ponder this mystical land, considered as the source of the Nile after the merchant Diogenes reported he had travelled there and that the natives named it “the Mountains of the Moon” after its legendary snow capped peaks.
Unlike other peaks in East Africa, they are a collision range, like the Himalaya, which topographically makes them much more interesting: a tumultuous clash that results in so many peaks and valleys. They have the largest glaciers and the third highest peak in Africa; Margherita Peak on Mt Stanley is only a little shorter than Batian on Mt Kenya at 16,795 feet.
We stay at Ndali Lodge, a charming property on the edge of the Kibale forest, which has the highest density of primates on the continent. From there, we take a scenic flight over the mountains, not stopping anywhere, but only imagining how much Stanley would have thrilled in this perspective.
QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK
The birdlife in Uganda is second to none - they have over 1,000 species and more than 600 of them are found in Queen Elizabeth National Park, which is named after the UK’s sitting monarch. The tree climbing lions of Ishasha, in the southern sector of the Park, also make their home here, apparently using the height as a vantage point from which to spot prey, escape the heat and avoid getting too wet in the rain.
Taking a boat along the Kizinga channel, which runs across the Park, is one of the most gratifying ways to view game, particularly elephants who loom above one in a way not experienced by car. On the eastern side, in Kyambura Gorge, one can go trekking with families of savannah chimpanzees. The Park is also known for its craters, and crater lakes, most famously Lake Katwe, where prolific salt miners have created a web of multicoloured salt pits. On a trip to Queen Elizabeth National Park, we’ll often stop for a picnic in the northern part, or carry on to Mweya to do a boat trip and lunch at Mweya Lodge.
WHITE WATER RAFTING AT JINJA
Right on the River Nile is Wildwaters Lodge, a superlative stop off on any helicopter trip, and not just for its extraordinary position and outstanding accommodation. A private island surrounded by rain-forest and the overlooking turbulent rapids of the Nile, it is a great spot to try out white water rafting, as well as bungee jumping and river surfing. For a more sedate palate, the bird and game viewing within this pristine riverine environment is truly lovely.
BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST & THE VIRUNGA MOUNTAINS
The Virunga Mountains are a chain of eight volcanoes that stretch between Uganda, Congo and Rwanda. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, which borders Congo and Virunga National Park, is old, complex and rich in biodiversity: dense with life of every kind. It is home to half of the world’s remaining population of mountain gorillas, as well as chimpanzees, colobus monkeys, birds, butterflies, lizards and numerous endangered creatures, and over 1,000 species of plant life. Crisscrossed with countless streams, its tropical climate is an important water catchment area for the countryside that surrounds it.
This is arguably the best gorilla trek on offer. It’s physically more challenging, often very steep, but the forest is truly entrancing: the trees, the sounds, the atmosphere are awe-inspiring. It is the quintessential gorilla experience. We stay at Clouds, which perched on top of a hill in spitting distance of the Congo. It provides easy access for trekking with any of the gorilla groups within the park, and is a great spot from which to take a helicopter flight. We’ll fly along the Rwandan border over three of the eight Virunga volcanoes, over Bwindi Forest and Lake Mutanda, and the impressive agricultural terracing lattice-work in the farmlands. Landing on Muhabara, a classic conical shaped volcano that straddles all three countries, we stop for a sun-downer. At over 14,000 feet, the views stretch over the entire volcanic chain: it’s the perfect spot for a gin and tonic.